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by Christine Stephen
BELIZE: a Traveler's Paradise
Nestled on the Caribbean coast between Mexico and Guatemala, Belize’s proximity, along with English being the native language, makes it a traveler’s paradise. The population is comprised of a distinct dichotomy of cultures. Living in harmony are the Creoles (European-African), Garifunas (Carib-African-Indian), Mestizos (Spanish-Indian), Mayas (Mopan, Yucatec and Kekchi) and European and Oriental settlers. The only thing more diverse than the ethnic makeup of the country is the abundance of eco-tourism wonders. Belize presents a wide variety of landscapes from the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, a marine ecosystem of coastal mangroves, a patchwork of seasonal farmlands, to pristine jungle and rain forest of the mountains.
Whether your idea of adventure is swaying in a hammock or soaking up the sun, enjoying the tropical ocean breeze or a trek through the lush rain forest in hopes of spotting a howler monkey, you won’t be disappointed. Belize possesses awaiting adventurers for all. The truly adventurous can go from a tropical rain forest in the morning to swimming with nurse sharks and huge manta rays at Shark-Ray Alley in the afternoon.
Our first stop was Maruba Jungle Spa. Carved out of the heart of the Mayan Jungle, Maruba is a hidden treasure. The closest jungle spa from Belize International Airport makes Maruba a convenient starting point for our excursion. When we arrived at Maruba the sounds of exotic drums were resonating throughout the property. We followed the primal drum beat on stone paths which cut through thick vegetation and coconut palms to the large structure which housed the concierge, restaurant and bar. We were welcomed and shown the accommodations by the manager, Nicki, son of the founder of the resort. The bungalows are finished in white stucco. Indigenous palms are used for the?materials of the Mayan style thatched roof. The decor of the bungalows blends Mayan, Creole and African influences with 24-hour electricity. The furnishing are designed by local craftsman at Maruba working with local wood from zercote, mahogany and other trees which accentuate the jungle atmosphere. The bungalows, which have the capacity to accommodate 35 guests, are decorated according to various motifs. Our bungalow was done with a simmering Japanese onsen (a private hot tub), a great way to relax.
The nouveau jungle cuisine consisted of fresh fruits and vegetables grown at the resort and a bounty of fresh seafood, reflecting the true essence of Maruba Resort. The spa treatments were developed by one of the owners, Dr. Merickston Nicholson, who believes in using natural herbal products and treatments to revitalize and rejuvenate the spirit as well as the body. They specialize in using a variety of muds and herbs found locally. The spa is an elegant, understated, high thatched-roofed area creating a relaxing and inviting welcome. The experience of the Mood Mud Massage, followed by the African Honey Bee Scrub, was a memorable treatment. Maruba offers one a relaxing atmosphere to sample new approaches for the mind, body and spirit.
Next stop was Ambergris Caye, the northern most and the largest of Belize’s offshore islands. Ambergris Caye is also the country’s most popular destination for divers and tourists. More than 25 miles long and a few miles, wide Ambergris Caye offers small, quaint beach resorts set on white sandy beaches amid coconut palms and mangrove trees. Diving remains the cornerstone attraction for the tourists who visit Belize. The best diving is found right off the shores of Ambergris Caye. The cobalt blue waters flow through coral reefs and deep canyons joined by a variety of tropical fish in a rainbow of color added to the splendor. The spectacular underwater world is rich in exotic corals, sponges and sea fans. The diversity and beauty of the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere is available to view by divers of all ages and ability. The ambiance on the Caye is friendly and relaxed. Transportation is by golf cart and bicycle. The Victoria House is located on the ocean and presents a beach resort atmosphere.
Next stop on the trip began when we arrived at Chaa Creek Cottages in the early morning, with a slight mist falling. Rain is a wonderful thing in Belize. It brings out the flora and fauna and a few of the local characters. Normally spotted in the tree tops sunning themselves during the rain, huge spinney back iguanas scurried across the grounds. The Chaa Creek Cottages are located on a 330-acre nature reserve on the banks of the Macal River. The reserve is home to many forms of wildlife including more than 190 species of birds. Chaa Creek Cottages was the first jungle lodge to open in Belize (1981). Chaa Creek blends the ideal mix of luxury and natural beauty. At check-in we were briefed with a detailed description of the property. The resort’s mascot, Mzungu, a yellow lab, scampered up the stairs clearing the way for Mick Fleming. Mick and his wife Lucy are the owners and operators of the resort. The property is the result of their ambitious dream in 1977 of creating a sustainable, low-impact eco-tourism resort which offers the opportunity to experience Belize in its pristine habitat.
The cottages are tastefully designed with Mexican tiled floors and huge mahogany beds. You won’t find phones, air conditioning or electric lights in the cottages. The open windows and ceiling fans provide ventilation and oil lamps illuminate the rooms. The truly adventurous can experience the Macal River Camp, designed for outdoor people who enjoy rustic accommodations in a remote setting. Accommodations are safari tents, a legacy of the Fleming’s days spent in Kenya and Uganda, elevated above the forest floor on wooden platforms. They provide an African style camping experience. Hot showers are available and meals are prepared in traditional Belizian style in a central thatched roof structure. If one needs a break from roughing it, camp guests are always welcome up at the lodge.
Chaa Creek Inland Expeditions offer a wide variety of excursions, activities and tours. Guests can interact with nature by exploring the network of well main-?tained trails. There are Mayan temple sites on the property. Day trips and multi-day expeditions are available. Canoeing the Macal River was a favorite activity. The river provides current and aids in enjoying the ride. The river channels through the rain forest to the town of San Ignacio where guests are picked up. Driving back to the resort along the river bank you’ll see a scattering of wildlife and birds.
The Macal River flows into the Belize River, which runs close to 100 miles to Belize City. When the river is running high there is an annual race called the “La Ruta Maya Canoe Challenge,” a huge local event with teams competing for cash and prizes.
A recent addition is The Spa at Chaa Creek, offering an excellent selection of treatments and therapies with Pervona products. The Chaa Spa’s state of the art equipment, combined with the well-trained, courteous and friendly staff, gives guests an experience to rival any day spa found on Fifth Avenue or Rodeo Drive.
Mick and Lucy have a commitment for Chaa Creek to be more than a travel destination. They are involved with ongoing educational programs for both Belizians and visitors. The recently completed Chaa Creek Natural History Centre creates an awareness and delivers a comprehensive introduction to the history and geography of Belize. The research room includes archives of scientific studies, archeological artifacts, butterflies, moths, insects and animals specimens. One program not to miss is the Blue Morpho Butterfly Breeding Centre.
Next door to Chaa Creek is the Ix Chel Tropical Research Center and Farm. Ix Chel is a botanical paradise and a living lab for ethnobotanists. The farm is the work of Rosita Arvigo and Greg Shropshire, her husband, who moved to Belize to work directly with traditional healers and study herbal remedies and plants. Rosita was trained by a local Mayan traditional healer, the late Don Elijio Panti, with whom she apprenticed for several years until his death at age 106. The farm has sent roughly 3000 different species of Belizean plants for analysis at the National Institutes of Health. The center and farm serve as a living pharmacy for the future of natural medicine. Ix Chel offers introductory lectures and guided tours of their Panti Maya Medicine trail, a unique opportunity to learn more about the medicinal herbs and plants of Belize.
Additional information on Belize is available on the following Web sites:
www.maruba-spa.com
www.chaacreek.com
www.duplooys.com
www.ixchelbelize.com
www.victoria-house.com
www.travelbelize.org
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