In today’s society maintaining a healthy, youthful appearance is important both socially and professionally. Luckily there are many things one can do to counteract environmental damage and aging, despite the fact that skin type is largely hereditary.

Proper care of the skin is important to good health as well as beauty. Skin is the largest organ of the body. It regulates body temperature and blood pressure, protects against invasion of bacteria and other environmental pollutants, provides the first line of defense of the immune system and is key to elimination of toxins from the body.

While health-conscious Americans are careful about diet, exercise and life style, many neglect their skin. The hectic schedules of the ’90s can make the mere thought of shopping for—let alone, following—a skin care regimen seem overwhelming. Here are some tips for making this process less complicated.

A complete daily skin care program has four basic steps:

• Cleansing—removes both oil-soluble and water-soluble pollutants. Cleansers are more effective when removed with cosmetic sponges or terry cloth face cloths. Cleansing should be done both morning and night.
• Toning—helps to retain the elasticity of the skin and supports the other products in the series (e.g. calms sensitive skin, discourages sebum production in oily/acned skin, moisturizes dry skin). Toning should follow cleansing morning and night.
• Application of a day cream—protects the skin and helps to prevent free radical damage.
• Application of a night cream—nourishes the skin and helps to repair free radical damage.

To obtain the best results one should use all four products on a daily basis. It does not need to be time consuming to use all four products—most programs are designed to take less than five minutes a day.

Some people are hesitant to use creams because they think they will look greasy or shiny. To prevent this, pre-melt the cream by rubbing it between the fingertips. The softened cream is easily applied in a thin layer; in addition, creams last longer.

At about age 12, people begin to develop the type of skin they will have for the rest of their lives—oily, sensitive or dry.

The accompanying chart describes characteristics of these skin types at different ages, the needs of these types of skin, and a partial listing of ingredients that are particularly effective in meeting these needs. A wide selection of products containing these ingredients is available at most health food stores.

It is preferable to select products with ingredients derived from natural, rather than synthetic, sources since they are usually more compatible with the skin. Natural ingredients are better able to penetrate the dermal layer, rather than simply staying on the dead surface layer. If one has a question as to whether or not the source of an ingredient is natural, ask for the manufacturer’s glossary; it provides information on sources and functions of the ingredients used in their particular product lines and in natural products. This varies from brand to brand.

The number one cause of skin damage is the sun. Exposure to the sun results in premature wrinkling; dry flaking skin; a blotchy, “leathery” look; loss of elasticity and skin cancer. To prevent these, experts recommend that sunscreen be used on a daily basis year-round. In cold weather choose a wax or cream product instead of a lotion, since water can be driven into the skin by wind and can freeze, causing damage below the surface.

Choose a sunscreen that is full spectrum, i.e. protects against both UVA and UVB rays. The SPF (protection against burning UVB rays) should be at least 15. Earth pigments are the most effective full spectrum sunscreens.

It is also important to remember that to have the sunscreen provide the protection it claims, it must be applied at least 20 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun and should be reapplied every two to three hours.

Remember to apply sunscreen to the lips. If one doesn’t like the taste of a sunscreen product for the body, lip balms with sunscreen are available. An added plus is that regular use of a lip balm containing sunscreen helps prevent cold sores.

Don’t forget to have children apply sunscreen. It is estimated that 78 percent of skin cancer is caused by burns experienced before the age of 18.

The eye area is one of the first areas of the face to show signs of aging. This is because the skin around the eyes is the thinnest skin on the body. It has few sebaceous glands, and the elastic tissue is weak and constantly stretched by facial expressions.

After the age of 20 regular use of a cream specially developed for use in the eye area can really help to slow the development of character lines. A good eye cream will have a base of very light botanical oils, so that it does not weigh down the skin in this area, causing bagging and sagging.

Ingredients that help to retain the tone of the skin in the eye area include horsetail, euphrasia and lady’s mantle. Another recent discovery is aosain, a sea algae extract, which counteracts the action of elastase, the enzyme that breaks down elastin tissues.

Skin cells are generated by the lowest layer of the epidermis when the body is in deep sleep. These cells are pushed up toward the top as new cells are created. After about 28 days the cells reach the surface, where ideally they are shed or sloughed. This is what happens in flawlessly functioning skin.

However, skin cells on oily and/or acned skin are frequently cemented to the surface by hardened sebum. Epidermal cells on dry skin are frequently visible as white flakes. As skin matures the sloughing process becomes less efficient for all skin types. The result is dull, lifeless skin which has poor circulation and oxygenation.

Removal of excess epidermal cells is done with exfoliants. There are two types of exfoliants—mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliants include cosmetic sponges/face cloths, scrubs and peels. Chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids.

The key to proper exfoliation is to do it gently and only as needed. Otherwise one will remove too many protective epidermal cells, break down the collagen layer and even damage capillaries. A few hints:

If one uses an exfoliant that has grains or is at all abrasive, scrub with as little vigor as possible. Better yet, choose a mask that has wax beads as the scrubbing agent—they will melt as one scrubs to minimize the chance of doing damage.

• A peel mask should be rolled—not pulled—off the skin.
• Alpha-hydroxy or beta-hydroxy acid products should not have a pH below 4.5 and should not be present in a concentration higher than 10 percent for weekly, or four percent for daily use.
• Select products that not only remove cells but also have moisturizing and soothing ingredients to enhance the benefit of these products and protect the newly-exposed skin cells.

The use of masks dates back to antiquity. Masks are intensive facial treatments that should be done weekly.

Choose a facial mask specifically designed to suit one’s skin type. A clay or earth mask generally is used to draw impurities and support healing. A gel mask usually tones, stimulates and hydrates. A cream mask provides an infusion of both oil and moisture.

Cleansing before applying a mask enhances its benefits because it removes sebum, epidermal scales and pollutants that might act as a barrier between the skin and the mask.

If one’s skin has a tendency to develop pimples or blackheads steaming the face will help to prevent their formation. Steam opens pores, draws impurities from the skin and helps remove hardened sebum.

People with couperose skin (enlarged capillaries) should not steam because this will aggravate the condition. Also, one should be sure to choose a steam bath that has tannin herbs to restore elasticity after tissues have been stretched by exposure to heat.

Ceramides are substances that play a key role in maintaining the moisture level of the skin and are a major component of the intercellular cement, which binds epidermal cells together and strengthens the skin’s barrier against invasion of the body by environmental pollutants. As the skin ages the amount of ceramide is reduced. The skin becomes dry and wrinkles begin to form.

When ceramides are applied to the surface of the skin, they help to bind water in the epidermis. Stressed, damaged skin shows faster recovery.

Ceramides are an excellent supplement to any skin program. They are available in a variety of forms, as light fluids for use on a daily basis, in capsules as an intensive treatment, in masks and even hair care products.

There is more to maintaining the health of the skin than merely selecting and using the appropriate skin care products. A healthy life style is also necessary.

Eat plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables and whole grains. Don’t smoke. Use moderation when consuming fatty or spicy foods, alcohol or caffeine. Drink six to eight glasses of water a day; hydrated skin is beautiful skin. Exercise regularly. Youthful, vibrant skin is within everyone’s reach, thanks to recent discoveries of beneficial botanical, herbal ingredients and to the development of skin care products that can bring renewed vitality to both the body and appearance.